Blacksmith Press Diy Free To Show
Feel free to show off your latest creations or get advice on a problem, or anything else related to blacksmithing! Previous winners of our monthly contest!For a forge cost, theoretically, you can pay as little or as much as you want for a blacksmithing forge. At the lowest price point of 50, you can create your own DIY forge with dirt and a pipe. The mid-range price point runs at about 400.
Do your own research to double check if you agree with the opinions stated here before following them.Gday, Im looking to build a small hydraulic forge press and was wondering if anyone can point me in the direction of some suitable rams and the flow rate.This Sub now has a Discord Channel. Join it here.Beginner? Read our FAQ and FAQ Discussion, And be sure to check out below.WARNING!!! Read this before attempting any kind of forging.Please be considerate to others when posting/commenting. Blatant troll posts/comments will be removed.Posts of YouTube videos, gifs, or images must include the beginnings of a discussion or a write up in the comments with a minimum of three sentences. Posts without a submission comment from the OP will be removed within 24 hours.Obviously this sub is for blacksmithing related topics, so keep posts related to blacksmithing.Blatant advertising and for sale posts are not allowed.When reporting content, you MUST state WHY you reported it.Any NSFW posts will be reviewed by the mods and may be removed based on our judgement of the value of the content.ABANA Forging Fundamentals - a suggested program of study to learn hand forgingHave an englishweight anvil? Try this nifty little tool from anvilfire to find out how much it weighs in lbs.Dictionary from anvilfire for those hard to google terms.
Have you ever wanted to build your own sword? And I don't just mean a knife or dagger. This intro will serve as an overall reflection and analysis of the process, as well as a full introduction as expected.Well here it is. I wrote most of this while I worked on the project.
Skills from blacksmithing to drilling, to lathe work. I learned so many new things on this build. Much of this sword uses old techniques, honed by the generations.
It was something that took a new frame of mind again and again. I set this down for even months at a time. It is not an inherently challenging creation for someone familiar with their hands, but it takes patience, and requires focus. It was the first time I had ever tackled a project of this scale.Let that be my warning. Some I wasn't even familiar with.
I will cover what I know, and leave the remaining to you guys.ALSO PLEASE CHECK OUT MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL AND CLICK SUBSCRIBE FOR UPCOMING VIDEOS ON EVERYTHING FROM BLACKSMITHING TO SLING SHOT CONSTRUCTION. Almost every step along the way can be substituted, or done in a different way. I have made axes, knives, and spears, and nothing compared to the joy from this product.Another point worth making. When everything came together there was almost a sense of euphoria. I hope that with this guide, anyone can make such a tool in a much more timely manner then I did.All that aside, this was the most rewarding thing I have ever made.
This all can be done by hand, but because off the mass of the steel I chose to use a power hammer.I heated the whole section with a five burner gas forge to a yellow heat. To start, I wanted to reduced the width of the piece. The blade was too wide, and not long enough.
I hit both the side, and the flat of the blade to make it look more like a sword.After reaching proper width, length, and thickness I started to square up the piece as a whole. By using hand tools, it is much easier to not mess anything up.The overall desire was to stretch out the blade by compressing the width and decreasing the thickness that resulted.I switched over to a pneumatic hammer, when I needed to do finer work. The whole process is quite a lot of back and forth work. To counteract this, I started hammering it on the flat side of the blade. During this part, the sides of the steel began to thicken up more then the middle.
That is also part of the planning process. Make sure the areas you mark, have thick enough steel. The first step is to mark out what you want the blade to look like. I trust my skills with a hammer less than my ability to simply grind away the steel. At this point, the blade has it's proper profile, and is ready for the next step.After achieving a uniform thickness on the steel, the next step is to grind it to the desired profile.
If that is the case, then use the cup brush or the flap disc. To get the surface slag off you can use a variety of things, -wire wheel on bench grinder -wire cup on angle grinder -flap sander on angle grinder I recommend just using the wire wheel unless it proves to be too strong. Before grinding the bevels can start, all the slag on the steel must be off, because it dulls the belts very quickly. I prefer to leave excess material and finish up with a grinder.The tang can be designed in a variety of ways, but it needs to follow the simple concept of mine, curving on both sides with a tapering tang.After using the angle grinder, finish up the profile with either a belt sander/grinder, a angle grinder with a grinding wheel, or a bench grinder. Get as close as you can to the actual shape without risking the blade.
I also find the concave grind to be the hardest to make. Such factors need to be considered. These are the sharpest of the grinds, with the best cutting edge, but they are the weakest edge as well. The three main types of grind are as follows: concave, flat, and convex.These grinds all have their own pro's and con's Concave grinds curve inward toward the cutting edge. The cross section is what the blade would look like if it were to be sliced in half perpendicular to the blade.The main thing, when planning your cross section is to consider is what kind of grind you want. Now the question is to what you want your blade cross section to look like.
The edges round off smoothly. Still a strong style, but not the toughest.Convex grinds are what you generally find on axes. This grind can be easily sharpened in the "field". It is duller then a concave grind, given that it has more material. The grind is one angle across the whole surface of the blade.
The properties are similar to that of a construction I-beam. The fuller allows for a lighter weight without sacrificing any strength. This style is considered the easiest to cut.The other aspects of the cross section is the fuller, sometimes incorrectly dubbed a blood groove. A convex grind, however, will give you the dullest edge, with the least cutting power.
This step will take a long time. Work patiently as with any project. Let the machine do the work. Start with a dull one, then move up to a sharp one.Cutting bevels is all about going a little at a time. Using a sharp belt on a corner would rapidly dull a belt.
If you don't know what kind of metal it is, oil is always a safe call. Do research on how to harden your steel. This changes a sharpened shard of metal, into a brilliant weapon. Cut the bevels equally from both sides, until there is less then about 1/16 of an inch left.This is the most crucial step. Start shallow, then work its way to the middle of the steel's thickness. Apply gradual pressure at a same consistent angle.
Start with a low temperature, and bring it up gradually. Again the safe bet is to go just past the steel's magnetic point.When heating the piece up, make sure not to overheat it. The steel needs to reach it's critical temperature, which again can vary depending on what type of steel you have.
Before quenching make sure the oil is warm. Make sure the section of pipe is much longer then the sword. I glued the end cap on, and secured it to a stable table. The tang is not a crucial point, but the joint of it is.To hold the oil, I used a piece of three inch PVC pipe.
When it is cool, bring it to a very high grit belt, to rapidly remove the scale.After quenching, comes tempering. Let it stay in the oil for at least 30 seconds, followed by air cooling. This assures and even cool-down.
I decided to just clean it up with a scotch brite belt. Research what you have, in order to find the proper way.This part is all up to creator's opinion. Both the pre-quench temperature and the tempering temperature, as well as time and type of liquid depends upon the type of metal.
You can also wrap a piece around a wood block. I sand simply with a small piece and pressure by hand. Repeat the process and sand until there's only the 220 grit sandpaper scratches. Move up to the next grit, maybe 220.
When sanding one side, put pressure so the sharp edge is pressed against a table, and can't slice your finger as you sand. Be careful of the sword edge. Use slow speeds, and dull paper.
The general rule is to double the number as you go up.
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